5 Reasons to Visit Marseille

[русский текст - ниже]


It's snowing outside and I can't wait for December 1st to finally wear my new Christmas jumper without feeling like it's too soon - but I still have some unpublished photos from Marseille, and not sharing them seems like such a crime! So brace yourselves and get ready to dive into the blue waters and walk under the blazing sun as I take you with me to explore the best that France's largest Mediterranean city has to offer. As some of you may already now, my friend Sasha and I were visiting the capital of Provence-Alpes-Côte d'Azur to attend the France vs Germany game during UEFA EURO 2016, so this is by no means a comprehensive guide - however, it will give you an idea about what to visit if you're planning a short trip to this city.

VIEUX-PORT


The Old Port is what people think of first when they hear "Marseille" - you know, those snow-white yachts and the boats smiling and winking at you while glistening in the sky-blue waters of the harbor. In the morning local fishermen set up their stalls here and start selling fresh seafood, in the afternoon you are very welcome to stop by one of the cafes to have something to eat, and in the evening the bars are practically calling your name wherever you go inviting you to enjoy a glass of rosé with a view. One of the most spectacular ones awaits you at La Caravelle bar (34 Quai du Port).

NOTRE DAME DE LA GARDE


This Neo-Byzantine church that was built in the middle of the 19th century is located on the highest point of the city (149 meters) and can be easily reached by the bus №60 (you can find it in the Old Port); there's also no admission, so it's great if you're on a budget. Inside you'll be greeted by a number of splendid mosaics, but if that's not quite your cup of tea, go outside and admire the panoramic view over the city - the old blocks, the harbor, Palais Longchamp, the stadium, the famous Château d'If and the sea that doesn't seem to end.

LE PANIER


To be honest, wandering around Le Panier was something I was looking forward the most while on my way to Marseille. Once you get there, this charming ancient district with its narrow streets, enchanting old buildings, tiny little shops, colourful graffiti and often retroesque signboards doesn't wanna let you go. Spend an afternoon here walking the quiet rues, looking for postcards and trying out different ice cream flavours - my favourites include typically Mediterranean ones like lemon, lavender and yogurt.

MUCEM


I suppose it's not quite right to mention a place I haven't personally visited yet, but I've heard so much about this museum that I kinda feel obliged to talk about it. MuCEM is dedicated to the culture of the Mediterranean region, and the new J4 building (which was opened in the 2013 and is located close to the Vieux-Port) looks like a work of contemporary art itself. From time to time it also hosts temporary exhibitions - last summer, for example, they were showing Picasso.

STADE VÉLODROME


Stade Vélodrome (with a capacity of 67 000+) is home to the Olympique de Marseille football club, and with its elegantly curved rooftop, it makes quite an impression! Over the course of the last 6 years I visited seven stadiums in five different countries, and I have to say that Vélodrome is definitely one of the most beautiful ones - it's a pleasure to support your team in a place like this. That said, if you happen to be in Marseille on the match day, do get a ticket - if you have no idea what Ligue 1 is, you'll still make some great memories.


Photos  edited by Sergey Povoroznyuk

Climbing Arc de Triomphe


For someone who's rather afraid of heights in the day-to-day life, I have quite an indescribable affair with various panoramic views that require lots of climbing - once you reach the top and the city is on the palm of your hand, all that panting and soreness are well rewarded. Arc de Triomphe has been on my list for years - and finally ticking it off felt incredibly satisfying (especially considering the fact that I wanted to do it desperately in 2014, but got a little carried away with French toasts at Ladurée and Youri Menna's performance in front of the Opéra Garnier). And before you start telling me there are much more interesting things to do in Paris: I love a good cliché!

Have to say, there was quite a line, but it was less horrendous than I imagined, and soon after I was already running up the stairs - 280-something of them, if you're curious. The view that opened up in front of me was worth every effort: it's on top of the Arc de Triomphe, where you finally see how the twelve avenues radiate from Place de l'Étoile forming a giant sun in the heart of the city. You can see all the main attractions - the bizarilly shaped roof of Fondation Louis Vuitton, the tall buildings of La Défense, the white domes of Sacré Cœur, avenue des Champs-Élysées with hundreds of tourists wandering up and down, Tour Montparnasse... And, of course, la Tour Eiffel. As my friend pointed out, the view from Arc de Triomphe is actually even better than from the Eiffel Tower: cause when you climb the latter, you can't see it, duh!

After taking dozens of photos and taking time to breathe in the moment, I forced myself to finally get down - just in time for the rekindling of the remembrance flame: a solemn ceremony which takes place every day at 6.30 PM at the base of the arch where the Unknown Soldier is buried. Quite spectacular with all the French and American (in honour on the 4th of July) flags!

Have you been to the terrace of the Arc de Triomphe? Which other touristy attractions you can't pass by without visiting when you go to Paris? Anything special that you haven't ticked off the list yet?

***

Двадцать пять лет, проведённых в квартире на втором этаже, дают о себе знать - несмотря на страх высоты, меня какой-то неведомой силой тянет к смотровым площадкам: открывающийся с них панорамный вид на город, такой огромный, но внезапно умещающийся на ладони, стоит всех затраченных усилий. Каждый раз, открывая свой воображаемый бакет-лист, я натыкалась на давно поселившуюся в нём строчку "забраться на Триумфальную арку" - наконец-то вычеркнув её этим летом, я почувствовала невероятное удовлетворение (особенно учитывая тот факт, что два года назад меня отвлекли от осуществления задуманного, смешно подумать, тосты в Ladurée - тосты, впрочем, были просто #wowza). И пускай кто-то скажет, что в Париже можно заняться куда более увлекательными вещами - я считаю, нет ничего лучше, чем хорошее клише.

Сразу скажу, очередь была довольно утомительной - но были в моей жизни и длиннее. Получив заветный билетик по tarif reduit (€9), я отправилась одну за другой покорять отделявшие меня от вершины лестницы - 280 с чем-то ступенек, и вот у ваших ног лежит город. На крыше Триумфальной арки наконец-то видишь, как от площади-солнца расходятся двенадцать авеню-лучей. Прогуливаясь по периметру, то и дело натыкаешься на причудливой формы Фонд Луи Вьюттон, стеклянные фасады Дефанса, совершенно открыточные купола Сакре-Кёр, Елисейские поля с их снующими туда-сюда туристами-муравьями, башню Монпарнас... И куда же без Tour Eiffel. Как справедливо отметила моя подруга, вид с арки лучше вида с башни как минимум потому, что с последней главного символа города как раз-то и не видно!

Убедившись, что от объектива не ускользнул ни один сантиметр, а эти минуты наверху Arc de Triomphe впечатаны в память, я заставила себя спуститься вниз - точно к началу символической, но такой торжественной церемонии зажжения огня на могиле Неизвестного солдата (ежедневно в 18:30). 

Вы когда-нибудь поднимались на террасу Триумфальной арки? Мимо каких достопримечательностей не можете пройти, снова и снова возвращаясь в Париж? Что непременно хотите посетить в следующий раз?


Photos  edited by Sergey Povoroznyuk

Chez Paul


Whenever I go to Moscow, I always have breakfast chez Paul at some point. I first came across this iconic French boulangerie two years ago, when my friend and I stopped by their café on an early November morning. Founded in 1889 near Lille, it is now present in over 30 countries and is famous for it's sleek black design and tasty food. My favorites include salmon and tuna sandwiches and coffee - which is outstandingly delicious!.. You can find Paul around pretty much every corner in Paris, but it's especially nice that one of their cafés is located on Champs-Elysées since it can be tricky to find good food in this touristy area.

In Paris: 84 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008
Monday - Sunday, 7:30-22:00

In Moscow: Arbat street, 54/2-1
Monday - Friday, 7:30-23:00 & Saturday - Sunday, 9:00-23:00

***

Каждый раз, как я приезжаю в Москву, стараюсь успеть позавтракать в "Поле". Об этой французской булочной я впервые узнала два года назад, когда мы с подругой заглянули к ним пасмурным ноябрьским утром. Основанный в 1889-м году неподалёку от Лилля, Paul теперь можно найти в более чем 30 странах мира - его элегантные чёрные фасады стали такой же визитной карточкой, как вкусный хлеб и ароматный кофе. Отведать фирменные сэндвичи с лососем и тунцом в Москве можно по семи адресам, а в Париже и вовсе чуть ли не за каждым углом, но мне особенно нравятся булочные на Смоленской и на Елисейских полях - рядом с Триумфальной аркой традиционно сложно найти не слишком туристическое место с адекватными ценами, и "Поль" является приятным исключением.

В Париже: 84 avenue des Champs-Elysées, 75008
Понедельник - Воскресенье, 7:30-22:00

В Москве: ул. Арбат, 54/2, стр. 1
Понедельник - Пятница, 7:30-23:00 & Суббота - Воскресенье, 9:00-23:00
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7 Tips on Traveling with Megabus

[русский текст - ниже]

Waiting for my bus at Gare de Marseille-Saint-Charles on the 8th of July, 2016. Photo by Sasha Sannikov

When my debit card was charged £8.50 for a return trip from Paris to Marseille in May, I had a little bit of a panic attack. Having read a multitude of horrifiying reviews about traveling with Megabus, in which people described their journey with this company as "never again", I was, well, slighlty terrified. People mentioned all sorts of things you wish to not ever have to deal with: a driver listening to music all night long; the non-functioning on-board bathrooms; buses arriving 1.5 hours later (or not arriving at all); etc.

Needless to say, I prepared for the worst, stocking up on everything I could possibly need on my 12 hour night trip from Île-de-France to Provence-Alpes-Côte d’Azur (as well as installed BlaBlaCar). Turned out there was no need to worry that much: both of my journeys went smoothly, the bus was clean, people were generally nice and quiet, Wi-Fi worked well - and so did bathroom (well, it didn't work on the way back to Paris, but we stopped at gas stations regularly, so). I don't know if I was just extremely lucky or if Megabus simply operates better in France (by the way, Megabus Europe was acquired by FlixBus in the end of June - which did affect the prices, unfortunately), but I'm here to tell you that if you're on a budget, low cost bus companies are a pretty great option to travel around Europe - especially if you use some of the tips I'm sharing bellow.

#1. LAYERING IS KEY WHEN IT COMES TO YOUR TRAVEL ATTIRE

The common problem with traveling by bus, is that you never know what to expect: it may be really chilly on board or there may be no aircon and you'll be sweating like crazy. That's why it's important to layer your clothes. I suggest wearing full length lightweight pants, a t-shirt, a comfy sweatshirt and a jacket - if you're traveling in the colder months. It's also always nice to have a handheld fan and a big scarf that can double up as a blanket.

#2. NO CHANEL EARRINGS ON BOARD, PLEASE

This summer, I made a fatal mistake of wearing my beloved Chanel earrings during the trip from Paris to Marseille - only to realize somewhere near Avignon that I'm missing one. Moral of the story: leave all your treasured belongings home, or at least put those dainty diamond earrings in your luggage, as you'll probably be sleeping on the bus anyway.

#3. ENSURE YOU'LL GET A GOOD NIGHT'S SLEEP

Last week on a train to Moscow I sat next to a guy who literally didn't care he's on a train - during 4 hours he managed to nap in all possible positions on all possible surfaces (probably including his neighbor's shoulder). However, not all of us are that lucky. That's why to make sure you'll wake up feeling energized and ready to explore the city, I suggest packing: a neck pillow (here's the one that I use), a sleeping mask, a pair of earplugs or noise-cancelling headphones, and a calming essential oil blend to put under your nose (will also come in handy if someone on the bus doesn't see a point in showering or applying deodorant).

#4. MAKE SURE YOU PACK WATER, FOOD & BASIC TOILETRIES

Although I personally find it quite nice to eat sandwiches sold at gas stations when I travel, they're usually quite expensive - therefore I suggest grabbing some snacks like granola bars and a bottle of still water before you leave. Also, don't forget to pack some basic toiletries to freshen up in the morning (paper handkerchiefs, wet wipes, a folding toothbrush, some toothpaste, a hair brush, a lip balm, some hand cream, daily contact lenses if you use them) and some makeup - cause it's always nicer to travel without any mascara or foundation.

#5. INVEST IN A PORTABLE CHARGER (IF YOU HAVEN'T ALREADY)

Honestly, I don't understand how people manage to live without a portable charger these days. Although there usually are sockets on the bus, it's better to not depend on them - they may not work or they may be occupied by someone else's device already. I've been using Lepow Moonstone 6000 for three years now, but Puku charges are also awesome especially since now they make a nice thin version that's not bulky at all. 

#6. PACK LIGHT IF POSSIBLE & ARRIVE 30 MINUTES BEFORE

When it comes to Megabus, keep in mind that those who only have hand luggage with them will board first - and, trust me, if you're travelling for no more than 2 nights, you can definitely get away with a chunky backpack. If you didn't have an opportunity to choose your seats while purchasing the tickets, it's better to arrive earlier to be able to avoid sitting next to someone utterly unpleasant for the next few hours (and to also have enough time to actually find the bus - I spent ages looking for it in Paris).

#7. IF YOU CAN, SIT NEAR THE DOOR IN THE MIDDLE - AND DON'T FORGET TO STRETCH OUT!

If you can, sit on the right side of the bus next to the exit in the middle. There's usually more room for legs, you don't have to stand in line to get off the bus, and the bathroom is literally two steps away. When you're not sleeping, use every opportunity to get off the bus: walk, breathe in some fresh air, do some stretches for your legs, your neck and your back. Time will fly by, I promise.

Have you ever travelled with Megabus or any other low cost bus company?
Was it a nice experience or the one you would prefer to forget?

Love x Style x Life


Life's been a whirlwind lately. Turns out it's a little difficult to juggle uni, language courses, extracurricular studies and freelance work - especially when you also wanna be socially active and not go nuts eventually. Something that helps me to calm down and unwind these days is reading - from 18th century writers like Émile Zola and Ivan Turgenev to more casual and fun books like the one I'm talking about today.

In case you're still contemplating whether to read or not to read Garance Doré's "Love. Style. Life", here's my advice: do! That is, if you want to enjoy a few mornings with a beautifully made book learning more about Garance's life and the differences between French people and New Yorkers. Also... Did you know "Garance Doré" isn't her real name!? Now that was a surprise for me. More surprises (and a truly romantic story of author's relationship with photographer Scott Schuman) on the pages of this gorgeous book that will make you happy just looking at it sitting on your shelf.

***

Звучит банально, но в последнее время мои дни расписаны буквально по минутам. Оказывается, не так-то просто одновременно учиться в университете, заниматься фрилансом, посещать языковые и дополнительные профильные курсы - особенно если хочешь оставаться в курсе того, что происходит в мире, и, ну, высыпаться. Расслабиться помогает чтение: от Золя и Тургенева до более лёгких книг вроде той, о которой я хочу рассказать сегодня.

Итак, если вы всё ещё раздумываете, стоит ли покупать книгу Гаранс Доре "Любовь. Стиль. Жизнь", то вот вам мой совет: идите уже в магазин! В том случае, если вам, конечно, хочется провести пару вечеров с по-настоящему красивым изданием, читая о жизни Гаранс и различиях между французами и ньюйоркцами. Кстати... Вы знали, что "Гаранс Доре" - это псевдоним!? (Моя жизнь больше никогда не будет прежней.) Ещё больше сюрпризов (и такая трогательная история отношений автора с фотографом Скоттом Шуманом!) - на страницах этой книги, которая лично меня радует, даже просто стоя на полке.

Photo edited by Sergey Povoroznyuk

La Tour Eiffel


I've seen Eiffel Tower countless times, but my heart still skips a beat whenever I notice this tall and slender Parisienne on the horizon. I wonder sometimes, how did the city look before it was constructed in 1889... And I can't. Somehow, as long as you can see it from the corner of your eye, you know that everything is gonna be okay - and being lost is not more than an adventure... The (very obvious) question of the day is: do you love it or do you hate it?

***

Я видела Эйфелеву башню бесчисленное количество раз, но моё сердце всё ещё замирает, когда эта высокая стройная парижанка появляется на горизонте. Читая французских классиков, порой пытаюсь представить, как же выглядел город до 1889-го года... И не получается. Кажется, что пока Эйфелева башня возвышается над Парижем, миру под силу преодолеть что угодно - когда знаешь дорогу домой, за любым неверным поворотом ждёт захватывающее приключение... А какие отношения сложились с Башней у вас?


Photo edited by Sergey Povoroznyuk

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"Fashion Forward" at Les Arts Décoratifs

[русский текст - ниже]


As some of you may know, I'm currently obtaining a bachelor's degree in Theory & History of Arts. Naturally, before coming to Paris I was excited to visit some exhibitions - and although I didn't get to do everything that I planned, I did go to Les Arts Décoratifs to see the absolutely marvelous "Fashion Forward: 3 Siècles de Mode".

The exhibition lasted from April to August and celebrated the 30th anniversary of Musée des Arts Décoratifs' fashion collection. Sponsored by H&M, this fashion panorama showcased around 300 women's, men's and children's items from the late 17th century to Autumn/Winter 2016 collections: from embroidered juste-au-corps to Vetements' "May the Bridges I Burn Light the Way" sweatshirt quoting 90's TV sex symbol Dylan McKay. What's interesting, the items were complemented by the objects of decorative arts that helped get a better understanding of the costume - and the costumes themselves were freed from the glass cases. Thanks to the latter and the wonderful artistic direction and scenography, at times I almost felt as if the mannequins were about to jump down and start waltzing (or just go out to Champs-Elysées in a colorful Comme des Garçons ensemble).

I especially enjoyed two rooms. Firstly, the one that featured the creations of Paul Poiret - which would suddenly disappear when the light changed revealing Paul Iribe's illustrations. Secondly, the breathtaking la nef, where the modern fashions (1940's-2016) were gathered together. Here you could see Paquin and Grès, Christian Dior and Cristobal Balenciaga, André Courrèges and Sonia Rykiel, Yves Saint Laurent and Issey Miyake, Martin Margiela and Dries van Noten, Alexander McQueen for Givenchy and Albez Elbaz for Lanvin, Raf Simons for Dior and Nicolas Ghesquière for Louis Vuitton, Karl Lagerfeld for H&M and latest H&M Conscious Exclusive collection (which patterns were inspired by the museum's archives).

What I love the most, is that Pamela Golbin (general curator of the exhibition and the chief curator of Fashion & Textiles - aka the woman I'm greatly inspired by) sees fashion exhibitions not as a retrospective, but rather as a perspective. Thanks to this revolutionary approach, Les Arts Décoratifs presents us the idea that fashion museums shouldn't just collect the items of the past - but should also collect contemporary clothes and accessories, analyze what they're influenced by and what they reflect, as well as create various educational programs. "3 Siècles de Mode" demonstrated that although nowadays fashion is a multi-billion-dollar industry, it's also still art and there's very much still place for innovation, creativity, and passion. Fashion forward!

I hope you'll enjoy this fraction of the photos I took. Bonne journée!


Photos edited by Sergey Povoroznyuk