Parisian Rooftops

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Printemps panoramic terrace offers an almost 360-degree view of Paris: from the gable roof of Opera Garnier and the monolithic building of Montparnasse Tower to the elegant silhouette of the Tour Eiffel and the snow-white domes of Sacré-Cœur. And between them - an array of white and grey sunlit rooftops, thousands of windows and balconies with flowerpots, tree-lined boulevards, people running their errands... The whole city in the palm of your hand.

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С террасы универмага Printemps открывается практически 360-градусный вид на Париж: от двускатной крыши Оперы и монолитного прямоугольника небоскреба Монпарнас до изящного силуэта Эйфелевой башни и белоснежных куполов Сакре-Кёр. А между ними - множество залитых солнцем маленьких серо-белых крыш, бесконечные окна и балконы с цветочными горшками, обрамлённые деревьями бульвары, снующие взад-вперёд люди... Весь город словно на ладони.

Photos edited by Sergey Povoroznyuk
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Bonjour!

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As someone who already owns a 'Merci Beaucoup' sweetshirt, I just couldn't pass by the 'Bonjour' tee. Slogan tops are everywhere these days (a few days ago I saw a really old man in the metro who had 'New Wave' plastered across his chest), making it simple to find the one that reflects your beliefs whether you are a feminist, an active supporter of Macron's Make Our Planet Great Again campaign (#1 and #2) or someone who believes in love at first sight.

Next Sunday I'm flying to Paris again (okay-okay, I promise not to wear this t-shirt on the plane); it will be my fifth trip to the capital of France and I'm looking forward to catching up with friends and finally visiting Versailles. If you know of any photogenic light-filled cafés, must-see exhibitions or secret addresses, I'll be glad to add them to my list of places to visit - and then write about here on the blog.


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Пройти мимо футболки с надписью Bonjour? Невыполнимая задача - особенно для обладателя толстовки Merci Beaucoup. Футболки со слоганами находятся на пике популярности (на днях я видела в метро очень пожилого мужчину, поперёк груди которого красовалась надпись "New Wave"), и в магазинах можно найти огромное количество классных недорогих вариантов: с феминистскими высказываниями, с макроновским Make Out Planet Great Again (раз и два) и с фразами для тех, кто находится в поиске идеальной пары.

В следующее воскресенье я снова лечу в Париж (ладно-ладно, обещаю надеть что-нибудь другое для пересечения границы Франции); это будет моя пятая поездка, и я с нетерпением жду встреч с друзьями и долгожданного посещения Версаля. Если у вас есть какие-нибудь советы относительно светлых фотогеничных кафе, выставок-которые-нельзя-пропустить и секретных адресов - буду рада выслушать их!

Футболка - Stradivarius

Photo edited by Sergey Povoroznyuk

Jewelry at Place Vendôme

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Delightful Chanel window display and tourists fantasizing about Cartier at place Vendôme - also known as the home to the finest names in high-end jewelry: from Chaumet and Boucheron to Chopard and Breguet. I've never been particularly interested in diamonds and rubies, but somewhere between writing assignments on the history of various cuts, Van Cleef & Arpels Mystery Set technique and the different inspirations behind art deco pieces I found myself slightly enamored with this world. If you want to find out the secrets behind those sparkling facades and learn more about how bracelets and necklaces evolved throughout the centuries, I highly recommend getting this book - without it I wouldn't have passed my jewelry exam as well as I did.

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Пленительные витрины Chanel и туристы, мысленно примеряющие на себя восхитительные предметы от Cartier на Вандомской площади, которая приняла в свои классицистические объятия целую плеяду лучших ювелирных имён: от Chaumet и Boucheron до Chopard и Breguet. Всю свою жизнь я равнодушно пролистывала страницы, рассказывающие об украшениях и новинках часового искусства, но в этом году - где-то между написанием работ о видах огранки, невидимой оправе Van Cleef & Arpels и источниках вдохновения, повлиявших на изделия периода ар-деко, - я обнаружила, что потихоньку влюбляюсь в этот мир. Если вам захочется узнать о том, что скрывается за сверкающими фасадами и как менялись браслеты и колье на протяжении истории, очень рекомендую вот эту книгу - без неё я бы ни за что не сдала экзамен по ювелирке на отлично.

Photos edited by Sergey Povoroznyuk

"Manolo Blahnik: The Art of Shoes" at Hermitage

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Last Friday we went to see Manolo Blahnik's retrospective exhibition at the General Staff Building. Unfortunately, it has already ended since then - but you will still have a chance to visit it in Prague, Madrid or Toronto. Of course, when it comes to concept & organization of fashion exhibitions, Russia can hardly compete with much more experienced Europe; nonetheless, I still enjoyed it a lot - even the most cynical heart would flutter at the sight of these exceptionally beautiful pumps. Here are just a few styles that were featured at this exhibition: the famous heels with cherry appliqués (and also a pair with knitted strawberries), exquisite sandals that were clearly inspired by Alexander Calder's work, one of my favourite collections - Fall/Winter 2017 which was dedicated to the 20th century avant-garde, silk satin mules from Coppola's "Marie Antoinette", humongous "Brick" slides, thigh-high boots created in collab with Vetements and Rihanna, etc.

I'm aware just how tacky it is, to compare a pair of shoes to a work of art, but "œuvre d'art" rolls off your tongue so naturally when you see these scuptured heels (they are so much more elegant than everything we see in stores these days!), impeccably pointed toes, thin straps that embrace the ankle so tightly yet softly, delicate embroideries and cascading sequins. It is all indeed very, very beautiful.

Señor Blahnik, just so you know: I wear size 40.

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В прошлую пятницу мы ходили в Главный Штаб на ретроспективу Маноло Бланика - к сожалению, в воскресенье она закончилась, поэтому тем, кто не успел её посетить, остаётся лишь рассматривать фотографии - или планировать поездку в Прагу, Мадрид, Торонто. Конечно, в плане концепции и организации модные выставки в России по вполне понятным причинам проигрывают аналогичным экспозициям в Европе, но я получила огромное эстетическое удовольствие - сложно оставаться равнодушным, когда в одном месте собрано такое количество великолепных туфель. В витринах - и знаменитые босоножки с вишенками (а ещё с ягодами земляники), и явно вдохновлённые Александром Колдером модели, и моя любимая коллекция Осень/Зима 2017 с отсылками к авангарду начала XX-го века, и атласные мюли пастельных оттенков из копполовской "Марии-Антуанетты", и такие отличные от них сандалии-кирпичи, и ботфорты из коллабораций с Vetements и Рианной...

Я прекрасно понимаю, какая пошлость - называть обувь "произведением искусства", но это словосочетание так и норовит сорваться с языка при взгляде на фигурные каблуки (насколько же они элегантнее всего того, что предлагают дизайнеры сейчас!), доведенные до совершенства узкие носы, изящно перевивающие щиколотку тонкие ремешки и завязки, рельефную вышивку и каскады блесток. Это действительно очень, очень красиво.

Синьор Бланик, так, на заметку: я ношу 40-й размер.

Cloudy Afternoons at Jardin des Tuileries

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Jardin des Tuileries is especially beautiful on cloudy days when the white powdery sand merges with the overcast sky. Tuileries - as opposed to Jardin du Luxembourg with its vivid flower beds - reflects the spirit of Paris itself, which is often perceived as 'cold' and 'snobby' and where tourists in their colourful tenues stand out against the Haussmann buildings. Straight wide alleys, symmetrically planted trees, statues with their rigid poses and silent faces, isles of faded lavender and pale pink malva flowers - regulated by the formal principles of jardin à la française, it reminds of the carefully planned 17th century paintings.

It is impossible to imagine a trip to Paris that does not involve a passage through the Tuileries Garden. Here you can meet tourists in chino shorts - the ones that love quoting Lonely Planet guide books; vigorous Asian girls in their We Should All Be Feminists tees; anxious middle-aged couples bribing their kids with deep-fried churros; and scatterbrained mademoiselles who come back every year to explore all the trendy cafés which offer spicy shakshuka and coffee in brightly coloured mugs. After all, Paris spirals around the first arrondissement, making it difficult to avoid a rendez-vous with Tuileries.

The garden is located between two very different, yet equally attractive areas: the majestic Louvre with its countless galleries & Champs-Élysées with hundreds of shiny inviting windows. All this makes Tuileries a nice staging post - both for those exhausted by the beauty of all the Poussin and Ingres paintings and those who tried on every single dress between Charles de Gaulle and Franklin D. Roosevelt and still have not decided which one compliments their eye colour more.

After examining all the key masterpieces of Louvre, the aforementioned tourist in sturdy trainers will most likely stretch his tired legs out over the edge of the round bassin next to the Arc de Triomphe du Carrousel and dive into the pages of his trusty paper camarade - to find out that the garden's name is derived from the French word 'tuile' (which means 'tile') and that it was once transformed by the famous landscape architect Le Nôtre. While fit Parisians will be running past him in their mismatched froufrou Nike apparel, he will be shaking the dust off his feet and planning the rest of the day - there are so many attractions around Tuileries, that it is not easy to decide where to go: Église de la Madeleine, Arc de Triomphe, Pont Alexandre III, the Eiffel Tower - just to name a few.

The indecisive mademoiselle who walked along the Seine numerous times before will probably take a breather next to the bassin octogonal by the place de la Concorde. She may spend a little too long admiring the calves of the furure Parisian marathoners, but her mind will be occupied with the magazines from WH Smith that still smell of printer's ink, confit de pétales de rose de Provins from Ladurée and trinkets from Colette - which will sadly close its doors very, very soon.

At first sight, Tuileries may seem pretentious, but this is where my Paris begins.

Photos edited by Sergey Povoroznyuk

Chez Angelina


Stopping by Angelina on rue de Rivoli to pick up the legendary Mont-Blanc before heading to Jardin des Tuileries to devour the famous chestnut cream vermicelli pastry while lounging in an iconic green chair is one of those classic touristy moments everyone should experience when in Paris. And if the day is rainy, pick one of the tables in the lavish tearoom and enjoy the exquisite interior designed by Edouard-Jean Niermans over a cup of signature African Hot Chocolate. These are those little pleasures we come to Paris for - even if locals think they are just silly clichés.

How much? Around €6.90
Where? 226 rue di Rivoli, 75001
When? Mon-Fri 7:30-19:00, Sat-Sun 8:30-19:30

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Забежать в "Анжелину" на улице Риволи, попросить un Mont-Blanc à emporter svp, перейти дорогу, устроиться на одном из классических зелёных стульев у фонтанов в саду Тюильри, надкусить горку из каштановой вермишели и на минутку забыть обо всех планах. Если день выдался дождливым, устроиться поудобнее за одним из столиков в роскошной чайной, заказать чашечку фирменного африканского горячего шоколада и изучать великолепные интерьеры работы Эдуара-Жана Ниермана. Именно за такие маленькие удовольствия (которые наверняка кажутся местным жителям бестолковыми туристическими клише) мы и приезжаем в Париж.

Сколько? Около €6.90
Где? 226 rue di Rivoli, 75001
Когда? Пн-пт 7:30-19:00, сб-вс 8:30-19:30

Spending Summer in the City

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I have yet to take my sandals out of the box and check whether my favourite rainbow dress still fits me (if not, blame the crazy long winter and everyone's obsession with hygge), but my inbox is already overflown with news about 50% discounts on summer collections.

The citizens of St. Petersburg have accepted the fact that it is never warm in June long time ago, however this year's weather is absolutely absurd - I spent the first month of so-called summer wrapping scarves around my neck, drinking 'Dr. Mom' syrup straight out of the bottle and walking through puddles in wet textile sneakers that clearly were not designed for such rainy days (surprise!). It seems like it is time to stop moaning about the weather anomalies and put up with the fact that summer begins on the 21st of June, not on the 1st.

To be honest, the last few weeks were so exhausting (bye-bye, exams!) that I really want to go south - both literally and figuratively. Eat cheap fruits and dance to some sort of Camila Cabello all night long. Get tickets to Tunisia, throw a few bikinis in a suitcase and in a few hours greet the sun in Africa - just like we did 3 years ago. Or take a bus ride along the coast of Marseille and listen to the stories of a local man who clearly overestimated my ability to speak French (they all seem to).

Alas, the schedule I enthusiastically created today after successfully completing the penultimate semester at university means I will have to spend most of July & August buried in books about Renaissance and lengthy tomes written by art historians who make suprematism sound like quantum physics. Summer in the city it is, then. In between assignments and presentations I plan to finally visit Blahnik and Bakst exhibitions, take a look at the vintage underwear and Hermès carrés, finish 'Au Bonheur des Dames' and watch Sofia Coppola's 'The Beguiled'. Let's hope the weather gets better and I get to see summer not just on my Instagram feed this year.

Photo edited by Sergey Povoroznyuk